The idea for this page was recommended by Stu (GasserAlley). I must admit I hadn't thought about it for the site.
Here are some ideas that may be useful when painting or using glue on diecasts or plastic models. I will add some links and also
hopefully some of you will send me some input also. First off some of us have a hard time painting plastic models or diecasts.
If using can spray paint. I was told it is best to put the can in warm water to heat it up. * just don't put in in a pot of water on a stove!*
Just use hot tap water. Let it sit there for awhile till it warms up. That way the paint flows better. For plastic models. I am told that
they need to be wash in mild soapy water before painting. Needless to say the model will have to be rinced and dried before painting.
Personally I like using Tamiya paint. It seems alittle more forgiving and less running. Tamiya also dries pretty quick which is good.
As far as painting diecast cars? Strip the paint or not? I've tried stripping the paint. Very messy to say the least and the fumes are BAD!
**Quick note! If you use a paint stripper. Make sure it's in a very well ventilated area like outside and still try to avoid the fumes.
I've also had diecasts bead blasted. Using that method reveals the metal and any imperfections in the casting and hard to fix in some cases.
Also can be bad if you blast too much in one place. The paint on most diecasts is very thick. I have gotten a coulpe of diecasts
painted by others. The first one lost a door. So I had to take one off another diecast and send it. When the car came back. It had
chips in the paint. Still it worked out. The fella sent me another diecast. The next car I had someone else paint? Well,it came back
looking good since it was local. Only problem! Painter ran out of paint after doing the body. He remixed some (House of Collor I might add)
paint and it was a few shades off. How was I to know he is color blind? I'm not kidding about that. I worked with his dad and he was the
one who told me. No big deal though. It was a favor so I couldn't get upset and atleast he tried.
Now if I want a different color car. I just leave the factory paint on it, prime and paint. Just make sure the surface is clean of finger
prints and dry.
Here are some sites that may be helpful. I found them on the internet. You may have to search them. I think they are mostly forums.
Now for the glue. I use mostly Loctite 404 or 380. The bad thing about using them or super glue? If you want to glue a hood or trunk shut.
It can leave a fine residue on the diecast body or clear plastic. It will usually wipe off. In some cases it will not wipe off. If I use either of them.
I try not to use too much. Since the fumes seem to rise. I will turn the body upside down so the fumes don't get on the paint or windows.
How to make a mold? thought I would add pictures and catalog numbers for what I use. I buy mold making
material from Micro-Mark. They ship quickly!! Which is a plus.
Here is a list of what is needed.
Liquid Silicone Rubber(RTV) # 82083
Resin # 82057
Mold release # 80475 (sometimes I forget to use it)( Also needed for a 2 part mold)
Mixing set # 82415 comes with stirring sticks and 24 2oz. cups
or Mixing set # 80352 comes with stirring sticks and 6 8oz. cups
I use plastic cups like shown for adding mix and stirring
Now for the mold. This is what you need to get started. Both the
silicone and resin are 2 part. to be mixed in equal parts. Next is the parts and what ever you use for the mold.
I use masking tape to hold the parts in place. The clear plastic
thing in the background is what I am using for the mold. You
have to use something that is deep and wide enough for the parts
As you can see. You can mold more than just one item at a time.
Above is the mixture. I use the cup to hold the mix. On this I
used 2 each of the mixes.
Here it is. Ready to pour.
The parts are in the container. One reason I use the tape is that
without it. Some parts will float to the top. Also.When you
remove the tape after it sets up. It's easier to find the parts.
Sometimes I do not mix enough as I did here. I cut un-needed
parts of another mold as filler.
It is important that the mold not be tacky or it isn't cured.
When it is cured it will not be tacky at all. It will be like rubber.
Here the mold has been removed and you can see the tape
and parts. Not is the time to remove the tape and parts from
the mold.
The parts have been removed now and I am ready to pour the resin. If you mix too much. Just use it in other
molds or toss it. Make sure it is stirred good. Otherwise it can crystalize and ruin the mold.
Here is the mold with the resin poured in. Some parts might get air bubbles. I use something small to get bubbles out.
The right picture shows what it looks like after the resin has cured.
Here are the finished parts! There will be some trimming needed and sanding.
I guess I forgot to mention that after mixing the Silicon(RTV), that you need something to pour it
in. There are many ways to do this.
Andrew lives in Australia. He sent in these pic's. He uses pieces of wood and a clamp to make a
mold. It's nice to know that people in other Countries share our passion for cars. It doesn't matter
where someone lives. If you have questions, ideas or comments. I would like to hear from you!
I hope this helps those that want to try making molds. If you have any questions,comments or tips.
Let me know. For Questions. If I don't know the answer. I will try to find it.
I will add more info as I find it or someone makes a suggestion.
